The Unkept

Cambodia 1996. Back of a moto, herking and jerking across Phnom Penh. At the time, there were no lights, no street lights, or street names, no building numbers, nothing. It was fantastic. You had to be careful at night, but once during my time there I took a midnight moto ride through the city. The streets were ink black and deserted. A full moon.

I think people left me alone because I was so shady looking. They probably said, "Geez, that guy can't even afford a haircut, let's cut him a break."

I hear now the city has changed, almost beyond recognition, as have Siem Riep and other towns. I don't think I want to go back and see what the world of tourism has done. I think I'll keep my memories intact.

Year Zero

Okay, here are some pages from a recent book, my 53rd with Blurb, about Cambodia, a trip I took back in 1995 when this Southeast Asian country was still wild and somewhat untamed.

I hear rumors today of the party scene in Phnom Penh, of the throngs of teens going for clubs, etc, and I hear of the developments around Angkor and it really turns my stomach.

I hope, hope, hope this is not the case. I really do. The Cambodians have suffered for decades and to emerge into this style of "modern" life is another cruelty they do not deserve.(According to some reports, the highest AIDS rate in all of Asia.)

Of all the places I have been, Cambodia ranks near the top in terms of the overall experience I had, and the Khmer culture is remarkable to say the least.

I can see why so many people fall for this place.